Taking care of your battery is really important. When you install a new battery, install a new Battery Tender Junior. This smart charger is carefree. All you need to do is plug your bike in when you are not riding. The smart charger does not allow your battery to overcharge. It maintains your battery for the maximum life possible. Only costs around $30.00.
The guys at 303, Dave and Wade will take care of you:
http://www.303cycle.com/BATTERY-TENDER-SUPER-SMART-BATTERY-TENDER-JR1-detail.htm?productId=8523969&ez=BATTERY+TENDER+SUPER+SMART+BATTERY+TENDER%c2%ae+JR.~q=ssaaSUPER+SMART+BATTERY+TENDER%c2%ae+JR.zzbidaa142zz~r=~&source=searchbar
Monday, May 16, 2011
It's now time to check your brakes...
I need to set the record straight, my customer purchased the bike in this condition and called me to fix it. Please let this be a warning that when you buy a used bike, have it inspected by a professional mechanic before you ride your new used bike.
This is for real. A customer called me out to restore his 2000 600 katana. As a safety check, I check tires, brakes, axels, electrical, controls, clutch. and a bunch of other stuff. I was adjusting and lubricating the bikes chain, and I heard a loud grinding noise as I spun the rear wheel. Need I say more. Yes I restore brakes too, and that is what I had to do.The first photo is of a very worn, well grooved pad that needs replaced, the second is what is left of what was a brake pad. This scenario in the right conditions can lock up your rear wheel and throw you into the path of a semitruck. Have your brakes inspected by a professional 3-4 times a year.
This is for real. A customer called me out to restore his 2000 600 katana. As a safety check, I check tires, brakes, axels, electrical, controls, clutch. and a bunch of other stuff. I was adjusting and lubricating the bikes chain, and I heard a loud grinding noise as I spun the rear wheel. Need I say more. Yes I restore brakes too, and that is what I had to do.The first photo is of a very worn, well grooved pad that needs replaced, the second is what is left of what was a brake pad. This scenario in the right conditions can lock up your rear wheel and throw you into the path of a semitruck. Have your brakes inspected by a professional 3-4 times a year.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Cracked air intake boots, Carb bikes.
Hello,
This will be the first of my series of "Things to watch out for tips", series of posts to educate my loyal followers. As you know carbs need air and fuel to make the engine produce rotating energy which propels us forward. The carb is basically a toilet, it has a float and a needle valve just like the "John", in your house. Imagine for a second that there is a straw in your toilet, the business end, not the part that holds water in the back, the carb draws fuel through the straw and atomizes it in a venturi, simply put. The air that the fuel is mixed with passes through the venturi of the body of the carb, mixes with fuel and is drawn into the cylinder by means of a specific passge way, the carb intake boot. The carb intake boot is usually a rubber molded part that joins the carb to the head of the engine with a tight fit, not allowing any air to be drawn in by the connections, only through the rear of the carb. When the "Intake Boot" ages from hot and colt cycles and uv radiation from the sun exposure, they develope cracks. These cracks cause unwanted air to enter the combustion chamber after the mixing of fuel has occured. This additional air entering changes the mixture from just right to lean. The symptom of this problem can easily be detected by being aware of the principles of combustion and a few other tips I have observed over the years: Cracked air intake boots cause the bike to : Caugh , like it has a smokers hack or a cold, crackle from too lean of a fuel mixture, sometimes backfire, engine runs too hot, blue pipes, meaning the chrome header pipes are not a golden color, they are blue. When an observance of blue header pipes happens, pay attention to other symptoms listed previously.
I hope this helps with understanding this common problem that can be easily misdiagnosed .
This will be the first of my series of "Things to watch out for tips", series of posts to educate my loyal followers. As you know carbs need air and fuel to make the engine produce rotating energy which propels us forward. The carb is basically a toilet, it has a float and a needle valve just like the "John", in your house. Imagine for a second that there is a straw in your toilet, the business end, not the part that holds water in the back, the carb draws fuel through the straw and atomizes it in a venturi, simply put. The air that the fuel is mixed with passes through the venturi of the body of the carb, mixes with fuel and is drawn into the cylinder by means of a specific passge way, the carb intake boot. The carb intake boot is usually a rubber molded part that joins the carb to the head of the engine with a tight fit, not allowing any air to be drawn in by the connections, only through the rear of the carb. When the "Intake Boot" ages from hot and colt cycles and uv radiation from the sun exposure, they develope cracks. These cracks cause unwanted air to enter the combustion chamber after the mixing of fuel has occured. This additional air entering changes the mixture from just right to lean. The symptom of this problem can easily be detected by being aware of the principles of combustion and a few other tips I have observed over the years: Cracked air intake boots cause the bike to : Caugh , like it has a smokers hack or a cold, crackle from too lean of a fuel mixture, sometimes backfire, engine runs too hot, blue pipes, meaning the chrome header pipes are not a golden color, they are blue. When an observance of blue header pipes happens, pay attention to other symptoms listed previously.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)