Dirty air cleaner or neglect?

    Ok, it's kind of a loaded question. But without seeing the worse case scenario, you would not believe it if I told you. So here it is. I really got a call from a customer who complained of a wondering idle problem, and the throttle was sticking badly when he released it while driving, scarey!!!!  let's just say a picture is worth a thousand words or maybe just one... I am going to skip why the throttle was skipping because it was even more obvious why.
     There really is no reason for me to have to explain why this is bad for the overall expectation on how long the engine will last with an air filter in such a state, but I will. A wondering idle in this case was most likely caused by the large hole in the air cleaner itself. Not only was the ambient air entering the engine not being filtered, the hole also disrupted the air entering the carbs, disturbing the fine balance of air and fuel as it enters the combustion chamber. Adding air to the mixture leans it out, creating more heat, and also creating more power. But if you are too lean, you will experience the same symptoms as "What to look out for tip #1", Cracked air intake boots.  Wandering idle, hot pipes, blue pipes, lean mixture, popping, caughing on idle, and uneven burn, all causing loss of power in extreme cases,  and can potentially cause severe engine damage. Going unchecked, your engine won't last long.
      Remember, an air cleaner is an engineered product, do not attempt to repair a bad air cleaner, replace with only an oem or K and N air filter.  See "TTLOFT#3, K and N air filter or OEM?

Drew
Mobile Motorcycle Mechanic LLC.

Air pods or OEM airbox and filter?

I am a big fan of factory airboxes. The reason why is because the manufacture spent countless hours and research and development to achieve a well balanced power curve. The sole purpose of an airbox is to equalize the air entering the velocity stack at the rear of the carb. If the air is not equal entering each carb and cylinder, the engine will run rough, the idle will wander, and tuning becomes difficult.    Pods are useless in my opinion  because  even   drag racers don't use airpods, they use velocity stacks.    The Factory airbox should be used at all times. Now depending on the type of airbox you have, some modifications to the box can be made, but careful consideration should be used when doing that.  I have found by increasing the opening to a stock airbox slightly, I can increase the air intake into the stock box. This does not interfere with the engineered aspects of volume inside the box, just the diameter of the intake port opening. By allowing the air to be less restricted getting to the air filter, you can increase the volume of air getting to the air cleaner. I also use high flow KandN air filters. These filters increase the flow and volume of the  air that enters the airbox, less restrictive, but still maintains the balance of the airbox. Some jetting may be required. Use a dyno with a sniffer to check your burn, and adjust for your riding conditions, Carb Bikes only. Fuel injected bikes will automatically adjust. Its always best to verify the  burn the traditional route or use a dyno with sniffer.

K and N website link

www.knfilters.com

Carb intake boots.

Hello,

This will be the first of my series of "Things to look out for" tips", series of posts to educate my loyal followers.

     As you know carbs need air and fuel to make the engine produce rotating energy which propels us forward. The carb is basically a toilet, it has a float and a needle valve just like the "John", in your house. Imagine for a second that there is a straw in your toilet, the business end, not the part that holds water in the back,  the carb draws fuel through the straw and atomizes it in a venturi, simply put. The air that the fuel is mixed with passes through the venturi of the body of the carb, mixes with fuel and is drawn into the cylinder by means of a specific passge way, the carb  intake boot. The carb intake boot is usually a rubber molded part that joins the carb to the head of the engine with a tight fit, not allowing any air to be drawn in by the connections, only through the rear of the carb.  When the "Intake Boot" ages from hot and colt cycles and uv radiation from the sun exposure, they develope cracks. These cracks cause unwanted air to enter the combustion chamber after the mixing of fuel has occured. This additional air entering changes the mixture from just right to lean. The symptom of this problem can easily be detected by being aware of the principles of combustion and a few other tips  I have observed over the years: Cracked air intake boots cause the bike to : Caugh , like it has a smokers hack or a cold, crackle from too lean of a fuel mixture, sometimes backfire, engine runs too hot, blue pipes, meaning the chrome header pipes are not a golden color, they are blue. When an observance of blue header pipes happens, pay attention to other symptoms listed previously.

   I hope this helps with understanding this common problem that can be easily misdiagnosed .

Is your battery as strong as it could be?

 Weak batteries can cause many problems. Here is a list of a few of them. Weak charging, over charging, overloading regulator, burning up regulator, ignition failure, fuel pump loading, no spark, code tripping and the list goes on and on. So why not charge it when you are not riding?
I am going to just cut to the chase, your motorcycle cannot charge a dead or very weak  battery. Motorcycles have small stators (Alternators), therefore cannot charge a weak battery. The best insurance against a weak battery issue is to  install a battery maintainer. There are many "smart" chargers on the market. Some cost very little and can be found at popular discount tool stores, but I recommend spending at least $30-50 on a maintainer/charger.  There is a big difference between a maintainer and a  charger. A maintainer simply maintains an already "Healthy " battery.   A " charger" nurses a dead/weak battery back to life. A "smart" charger tests, loads, and reports on the health of a battery .   My  maintainer of choice is Battery tender Jr. from Deltran for motorcycles, atv, snow machines, and watercraft.  My battery charger of choice is made by Black and Decker, and has 2-10 amp charging, and is a smart charger. Let the smart charger do the hard work, and let the maintainer do the light work.
I would gladly accept any gratuity from Deltran or Black and Decker for the Blog advertisement. :)

When was the last time your carbs were cleaned?

Brake rotors and pads...

Does your antifreeze look like this???

Seriously? Yea I know, I could not believe it either. I actually drained this out of a bike that from the outside looked outstanding. Someone mixed antifreeze and never drained it or the overflow. Long story short, I had to back flush the entire system 5 times. Let this be a lesson on antifreeze and coolant , a lesson on what not to do. Check your antifreeze and coolant overflow "regularly".

stuck, sinking float...

K and N air filter or OEM?

Battery care not carefree battery...

Taking care of your battery is really important. When you install a new battery, install a new Battery Tender Junior. This smart charger is carefree.  All you need to do is plug your bike in when you are not riding. The smart charger does not allow your battery to overcharge. It maintains your battery for the maximum life possible. Only costs around $30.00.

The guys at 303, Dave and Wade will take care of you:
http://www.303cycle.com/BATTERY-TENDER-SUPER-SMART-BATTERY-TENDER-JR1-detail.htm?productId=8523969&ez=BATTERY+TENDER+SUPER+SMART+BATTERY+TENDER%c2%ae+JR.~q=ssaaSUPER+SMART+BATTERY+TENDER%c2%ae+JR.zzbidaa142zz~r=~&source=searchbar

It's now time to check your brakes...

 I need to set the record straight, my customer purchased the bike in this condition and called me to fix it. Please let this be a warning that when you buy a used bike, have it inspected by a professional mechanic before you ride your new used bike.

This is for real.  A customer called me out to restore his 2000 600 katana. As a safety check, I check tires, brakes, axels, electrical, controls, clutch. and a bunch of other stuff.  I was adjusting and lubricating the bikes chain, and I heard a loud grinding noise as I spun the rear wheel. Need I say more.  Yes I restore brakes too, and that is what I had to do.The first photo is of a very worn, well grooved pad that needs replaced, the second is what is left of what was a brake pad. This scenario in the right conditions can lock up your rear wheel and throw you into the path of a semitruck. Have your brakes inspected by a professional 3-4 times a year.

Photo of airbox.

Airbox assembly

1982 Yamaha 650 seca turbo , turbo assembly

Safety recall

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/company/recall/

Cracked air intake boots, Carb bikes.

Hello,
This will be the first of my series of "Things to watch out for tips", series of posts to educate my loyal followers. As you know carbs need air and fuel to make the engine produce rotating energy which propels us forward. The carb is basically a toilet, it has a float and a needle valve just like the "John", in your house. Imagine for a second that there is a straw in your toilet, the business end, not the part that holds water in the back,  the carb draws fuel through the straw and atomizes it in a venturi, simply put. The air that the fuel is mixed with passes through the venturi of the body of the carb, mixes with fuel and is drawn into the cylinder by means of a specific passge way, the carb  intake boot. The carb intake boot is usually a rubber molded part that joins the carb to the head of the engine with a tight fit, not allowing any air to be drawn in by the connections, only through the rear of the carb.  When the "Intake Boot" ages from hot and colt cycles and uv radiation from the sun exposure, they develope cracks. These cracks cause unwanted air to enter the combustion chamber after the mixing of fuel has occured. This additional air entering changes the mixture from just right to lean. The symptom of this problem can easily be detected by being aware of the principles of combustion and a few other tips  I have observed over the years: Cracked air intake boots cause the bike to : Caugh , like it has a smokers hack or a cold, crackle from too lean of a fuel mixture, sometimes backfire, engine runs too hot, blue pipes, meaning the chrome header pipes are not a golden color, they are blue. When an observance of blue header pipes happens, pay attention to other symptoms listed previously.

   I hope this helps with understanding this common problem that can be easily misdiagnosed .

Post your questions here for Mobile Motorcycle Mechanic

Hello all,  I created this blog for those out there who are having trouble with their bikes.  I know how difficult it can be troubleshooting an electrical problem, or ohhh wait, is it a fuel problem?  Post your questions here for all to see and we can all help eachother figure out what is going on with your ride.  Thanks again
Drew